66yo roti canai master stretches, slaps dough into crispy perfection for 23 years

Arumugam (left) preparing his crispy roti canai at his stall in Good Taste Food Court in Hui Sing Commercial Centre.

By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, May 27: For the past 23 years, 66-year-old Arumugam Ramanair has mesmerised customers at Good Taste Food Court in Hui Sing Commercial Centre with his skilful preparation of roti canai — stretching, tossing, and slapping soft, elastic dough onto the counter before transforming it into an almost translucent sheet and pan-frying it into golden, crispy perfection.

The veteran food operator, who is also the longest-serving vendor at the food court, has spent four decades perfecting the art of making the beloved layered flatbread at various eateries across the city.

For many of his regular customers, the experience goes beyond just enjoying the taste of his signature crispy roti canai. Watching Arumugam deftly twirl and flatten the dough with speed and precision has become a performance in itself before the flatbread is served with his mildly spiced and aromatic curry gravy.

Arumugam shared that his passion for cooking was nurtured from a young age by his father and grandfather, both of whom were skilled in preparing Indian cuisine.

“We always had delicious Indian food at home, especially during festivals and family gatherings.

“There would always be rotis, different curry dishes, sweets, and puddings. Growing up surrounded by all these flavours inspired me and helped shape my culinary skills,” he told DayakDaily.

Arumugam’s delectable murtabak chicken.

However, Arumugam only decided to venture into the culinary profession at the age of 26. Prior to that, he worked as a house painter for a friend.

“But I could already see my future in cooking. I knew I had the skills because I was already preparing meals for my family, and that gave me the confidence to pursue this path.

“At that time, there were only a handful of Indian roti canai stalls around, so it felt like the perfect opportunity,” he said.

According to Arumugam, while making roti canai may seem simple once the dough is ready, mastering the craft requires patience, consistency, and practice.

“Maybe this was my calling,” he said with a smile. “I enjoy what I do, and making good roti is truly a skill.”

Today, besides his famous crispy roti canai, Arumugam also serves a variety of Indian-inspired dishes, including chicken, beef, and sardine murtabak, Indian rojak, mee jawa, mee kari, nasi lemak, and nasi goreng — all priced affordably between RM1.50 and RM10.

“These days, customers want variety, so my wife and children help out whenever they are free.

“My wife, who is a Bidayuh from Bau, now does most of the cooking. She prepares excellent Indian dishes, and I truly admire her culinary skills,” he said.

Arumugam’s Pak Tam’s Roti Canai stall at Good Taste Food Court in Hui Sing Commercial Centre.

He added that his four children have also inherited the family’s passion for cooking and often lend a hand at the stall whenever they are not working.

“I’m grateful for the support from my family. They understand our culinary roots and traditional recipes. Perhaps one day they will continue the business,” he said enthusiastically.

Arumugam noted that his dishes have been warmly embraced by Sarawakians, reflecting the State’s rich multicultural food culture.

“Those familiar with Indian food from West Malaysia or India may notice some differences. But what my wife and I serve comes from our own family kitchen traditions. Our regular customers appreciate our cooking, especially the crispy roti canai,” he explained.

Arumugam’s Pak Tam’s Roti Canai stall is located at Good Taste Food Court in Hui Sing Commercial Centre and operates daily from 5pm to 10pm. For enquiries, contact 016-816 0993. — DayakDaily