A journey of culture, friendship, flavours

IT was great to be able to catch up with my old friend Robiah Tani, whom I endearingly called ‘Ai Bee’.

The Lutong-born woman, a key committee member of the Miri Jatti Miriek Association, was exuberant in talking about her educational trip to Yunnan, China last September.

She was selected by the association to take part in the ‘Sarawak Yunnan Cultural Tour’, organised by Sarawak Chinese Cultural Association.

Ai Bee was among the representatives of various cultural associations in Miri, who were involved in organising the 2024 Taste of Borneo event.

It was reported that following the success of the 2024 event, the organisers – comprising 25 different cultural groups from all across this division – had planned to hold Taste of Borneo 2026 this July.

“It was my first time in China, and it was truly an eye-opening experience,” said Ai Bee during our recent outing.

“I learned not only from the places we visited, but also from the people whom I travelled with,” she added.

Attention to inclusivity

One aspect of the Yunnan trip that deeply impressed Ai Bee was the organisers’ attention to inclusivity.

Other than her, another Muslim representative was former city councillor and Miri Melanau association president Abdullah Jaini.

“Every effort was undertaken to ensure that our needs, especially food and facilities to perform prayers, was really well taken care of.

“It made us feel respected and comfortable throughout the journey.

“I know that Muslims are very careful when they travel overseas, especially when it comes to what we can and cannot eat.

“I’m really glad today, the understanding of this has grown – many are more aware of this,” she told me.

However, it turned out that accommodating Ai Bee and Abdullah was no trouble at all for the organisers, in view of Yunnan Province being home to a large Hui Muslim community.

“Halal food was widely available, especially in cities like Kunming, Dali and Lijiang.

“Restaurants proudly displayed the Chinese characters ‘清真’ (Qingzhen), indicating halal options.

“Beef and lamb dishes, hand-pulled noodles, sizzling barbecue items on skewers and many local snacks – all of them in abundance, and delicious!”

Discovering similarities

The journey began with a visit to Kunming Cultural Village, where the warm and courteous welcome really set the tone for the days ahead.

According to the guide, Yunnan is home to more than 21 ethnic groups.

“This fact resonated strongly among the Sarawakian visitors. We have more than 30 ethnic groups living in one big house that we call Sarawak.

“It did feel like home, seeing that same spirit of unity amidst diversity in Yunnan.

“It was wonderful,” said Ai Bee.

The similarities continued with the traditional ‘long-hair’ dance performances, beautifully accompanied by the beats of the ‘gendang’ (drum).

Moreover, Ai Bee got to enjoy a spectacular showcase by a famous Yunnan dancer and choreographer, Yang Li Ping.

“She’s more than 60 years old, and yet still dances for the whole world.

“I’m told that she’s most famous for her presentation of the ‘Yunnan Peacock Dance’,” she said.

Ai Bee also noted how the dancers’ red-and-black costumes looked so much like that of the Bidayuh people.

“The beaded accessories worn by some ethnic groups in Yunnan reminded me of the Orang Ulu craftsmanship,” she added.

One especially touching moment for Ai Bee was meeting an 80-year-old craftswoman, hailed as the last custodian of her community’s traditional bead heritage.

“She’s so proud in displaying her accessories.

“Even at that age, she’s so stunning – reflecting the grace and natural beauty of her people.

“It was remarkable, indeed. I hope that in the future, Sarawak could also showcase more of our heritage elders to really highlight our cultural treasures.”

Certain rituals and customs signified deep connections, said Ai Bee.

“We were told about a traditional cow-slaughtering ceremony, which I saw as not too different from the Iban’s ‘miring’ ritual in Sarawak – both rooted in ancient beliefs tied to strength, courage and hopes for blessings; in this case, a bountiful harvest.”

The group also visited a Mongolian house that had a large bamboo tray, nearly three feet (almost a metre) in diameter.

“I’ve never seen anything like it,” said Ai Bee.

The visitors then met the Wa community, whose village was called ‘Bulang’.

This immediately caught Ai Bee’s attention.

“My forefathers once lived in a place of the same name, Bulang, in Miri.”

There, Ai Bee discovered more than 20 varieties of turmeric, many being used to make tea.

She was mesmerised by the flute-and-drum performances, which reminded her of Penan instruments that she had back home.

Meaningful exchanges

In Kunming, the group met the district officials and local community leaders, where they enjoyed warm and friendly conversations, and performed gift exchanges that strengthened the cultural ties between the two sides.

Next on the itinerary was an experience that really delighted Ai Bee.

“We visited Minzu University, where I was pleasantly surprised to meet lecturers and students who spoke Malay really well – and by that, I mean really fluent!

“It was very heart-warming to see such interest in our national language,” she said.

The university’s museum was an enriching experience as well, as Ai Bee and her fellow delegates got to learn much about the artefacts on display.

“There were items made from bamboo leaves, which surprised me because they’re still well-preserved.

“There were also straw sandals, deerskin shoes and traditional drums,” she said.

A check online sheds light over Ai Bee’s experience at the institution.

Established in 1951, Minzu University is affiliated with the Yunnan Provincial People’s Government.

It specialises in ethnic minority studies, cultural heritage, as well as language studies for both domestic and international students.

Feast for the senses

The guide told the visitors no trip to Yunnan would be complete without trying its famed cuisine – the ‘Crossing-The-Bridge Noodle’, a celebrated specialty with an interesting history.

It was a product so deeply affiliated with Yunnan culture that in 2008, it was listed as an ‘Item of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Kunming City’.

The star is the steaming bowl of broth kept hot by a layer of oil – the rice noodles, vegetables and meats are added just before serving.

“Abdullah and I really love this dish,” said Ai Bee.

“The story behind it is beautiful,” she shared with the writer.

This abridged version of the description on Yunnan’s tourism website, www.visityunnanchina.com, clearly explains the lore.

“It is said that there was a scholar during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) who studied every day on an island of Mengzi City in Yunnan.

“His favourite food was the rice noodles, and his wife brought him a serving every day at his office where he worked.

“But she was disappointed upon realising that the noodles would get cold on the way to the island.

“Later on, she discovered that the rice noodles tasted better when they were boiled separately from the chicken soup. One day, she noticed that the chicken soup had stayed warm during one trip and upon checking, she figured out that the oil layer on top of the soup insulated it from the cold and kept the heat in the broth.

“This was when she came up with a solution: bringing the soup, the rice noodles and other ingredients to the island separately, then assembling all of them just before eating.

“The story spread, and the wife’s ingenious way of keeping the food hot was immortalised in the name – ‘Crossing-The-Bridge Noodle’.

“It is now recognised as part of Kunming’s intangible cultural heritage, symbolising care, ingenuity and tradition.”

A city that charms

Ai Bee said there was nothing unpleasant about the trip, which took place during the autumn season.

However, she did feel disappointed over not seeing the maple leaves turn red.

“We arrived just before that transition; well, a small disappointment, but hardly enough to dim the whole experience,” she smiled.

Ai Bee said she was impressed by the cleanliness, and also the strong sense of safety.

“I’ve always been afraid of stray dogs since I was a child.

“In Kunming, there was not a single stray dog on the streets.

“The stations were clean and well-maintained.

“Security was excellent; we felt very safe exploring on our own.”

Ai Bee also learned about Yunnan’s thriving tea culture.

“It seems like the entire city is dedicated to this tea craft.

“Some prized teas can cost thousands of ringgit per kilogramme.

“I was lucky that our group was invited to a tea-tasting session; otherwise, we wouldn’t have been able to taste these super-expensive teas.”

Ai Bee said upon returning home, she carried with her more than just souvenirs.

“I brought back a treasure chest full of memories of shared cultures, thoughtful hospitality, new friendships and meaningful exchanges with people from all walks of life.

“I can never forget the professors and students who made me feel right at home.

“Yunnan reminds me that no matter how far we travel, we can always find connections – whether through customs, arts, food and also a sense of kindness.

“Indeed, for me, Yunnan is not just a destination, but a joyful journey of discovery,” she said.